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Buon appetito! Indulging in the cuisine of Italy

FROM the relics in Rome to the busy market in Verona, from the doves of Piazza di Spagna to the mallards of Lake Garda, from magnificent cathedras to a quiet lakeside castle, travelling around Italy is about experiencing the essence of the unique Italian lifestyle.

And a big part of that experience is leisurely enjoying some of the best food in the world. In October, I traveled to Italy for the first time, taking a weeklong tour that started in Rome and headed north to the Dolomites.

I visited Italy with Alpitour, the Italian tourist operator that also runs Neos airline. The carrier has started direct charter flights to Rome from Tianjin, Shenyang and Zhengzhou, and will soon open routes to Milan from Chinese cities in new future.

Rome

ROME wasn’t built in a day, nor can it be visited in 24 hours. There is just too much to see and do in the Eternal City. The Colosseum, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain are attractions that need no introduction. One can spend hours and hours walking in the historic center of Old Rome, which is packed with cathedrals, plazas and picturesque squares

My choice: serendipity tourism. Going wherever my feet choose to take me. They trod across 2,000-year-old cobblestones called sampietrini, or “little stones of St Peter’s.” The beveled black stones were used in ancient Rome because they were easily adapted to uneven ground and also left small spaces for rainwater to pass through.

Nowadays, the historic cobblestones are troublesome for bicycle and scooter riders, so they have been removed from most streets and retained only in pedestrian areas and on vintage roadways. It’s wise to wear comfortable, flat shoes in the Old Rome because the cobblestones are quite slippery and their cracks can trap high heels.

This four-star hotel in the Trastevere area of the city lies at the foot of Gianicolo Hill. It is in a 17th century convent designed by Francesco Borromini (1599-1667).

Much of the original architecture was preserved when the convent was converted into a hotel. It’s an elegant feeling to descent the grandiose staircase. The hotel has a beautiful garden, a perfect place to enjoy an espresso, and its terrace affords a panoramic view of the famed Hills of Rome.

There’s also something hidden in the hotel that’s not written up on its promotional brochures. Below ground is an ancient cave once used as a spa and wine cellar, and later a hidey-hole during World War II.

Address: Via Garibaldi, 27

Visiting Italy is, of course, a culinary adventure. The Cantina e Cucina is the perfect cozy family-style restaurant for enjoying some authentic Italian food.

Though the restaurant is near many popular tourist attractions, its menu is reasonably priced at an average 20 euros (US$21.2) per person.

For starters, the fried potatoes with cheese sprinkled on top were an instant fix after hours of walking, and the antipasto plate with salad greens, tomatoes and bread went down well with a glass of chardonnay or prosecco. The homemade fresh pasta was cooked al dente and served with a variety of sauce choices. Dinner ended with classic tiramisu, soft and rich.

A meal here is a bit like a party. The staff was very friendly and the ambience was cheerful.

Address: Via del Governo Vecchio 87

“I found Rome brick and I leave it marble.” According to legend, this was Augustus Caesar’s famous declaration about his feat of transforming the republic into an empire.

My last stop after a long day in Rome was the 3D presentation Viaggio nei Fori at the Forum of Augustus. It was an informative, lively tour of the ancient city, bringing the ruins back to life as they once existed. There is also another show at the Forum of Caesar. The 40-minute presentation costs is 10 euros and the narration is available in eight languages.

Website: www.viaggioneifori.it/en/

Verona

VERONA, the city of Romeo and Juliet, is in the middle of northern Italy, about 30 kilometers east of the Lake Garda.

After the hectic pace of Rome, Verona is the place to slow down and embrace the romance and leisure spirit of the country.

While Juliet’s balcony and the monumental amphitheater Arena are no doubt on every visitor’s checklist, there is much more to see for those interested in history. Verona was one of the most important Roman cities. Walking around, one can admire sites like the Gavi Arch and Pletra Bridge, which was rebuilt after the war with original materials.

This elegant restaurant in a well-preserved historic building on Piazza Erbe in the heart of Verona. The walls of its quaint courtyard are adorned by sayings such as “affluentia non continenza,” or “no wealth without measure.” The menu here is classic Italian, with homemade pastas, risottos, steaks and fish. The price for the tasting menu ranges from 46-57 euros per person, and the restaurant is known for its extensive wine list of more than 400 labels.

But the most special thing about Ristorante Maffei is the “Romeo and Juliet table” located amid authentic Roman ruins. The basement of this restaurant is an actual archeological site of the remains of the Capitolium of Verona, a temple that was built around 50 BC during a period of redevelopment in Verona. The Romeo and Juliet table is complemented by flowers, music and private waiter service for special occasions, such as weddings.

Address: Piazza Erbe, 38

TRENTINO and  the Dolomites

BEFORE arriving in Trento, I had a short stopover in Malcesine, an ancient town on the eastern shore of Lake Garda in the province of Verona, where I viewed the Malcesine castle. It’s a popular wedding site, too.

The cable car up nearby Monte Baldo takes you to a panoramic view of Lake Garda and its surroundings.

Although I went up the mountain on a day of unfortunate fog, I was more than compensated by a quite unique restaurant at the summer called Baita Dei Forti. It serves “mountain food” like polenta, goulash and cakes.

Trentino’s magnificent Dolomites attract skiers from around the world in winter and hikers and cyclists in spring and summer. It’s also an area of fine dining, where local specialties rule the menu. There were as many as eight restaurants in the region that were awarded Michelin stars in 2015.

I was delighted by the guest cards available in Trentino. They provide tourists with access to over 100 museums and easy reservations at 700 member hotels.

This restaurant in Trento was created by the will of the Lunelli family, owners of the Cantine Ferrari winery. The winery was established in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, who decided to create a local wine to compete with the best of French champagnes.

Before dinner, I had the opportunity to tour the winery and view the process of turning grapes into sparkling wine.

The one-hour guided tour can be booked by phone or online (http://www.ferraritrento.it/visit-us/visit-the-winery), and it ends with a glass of wine at Ferrari Incontri.

Chef Alfio Ghezzi presides over Locanda Margon, with a cuisine that finely balances flavor, texture and presentation.

The dinner started with a soft egg over creamed potatoes and Vezzena cheese. The runny yolk did something magical with the local cheese, which is produced on the Lavarone plateau and ages a minimum of 12 months.

The braised beef cheek with potatoes and mustard, fried capers and, surprisingly coffee powder, was also a winner.

Just last week, Locanda Margon became Trentino’s first two-star Michelin restaurant.

Address: Via Margone 15

 




 

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