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September 29, 2016

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Bone of contention Michelin has us stewing

THE Michelin Guide has finally come to China, stirring up a pot of controversy in its wake.

First there was an uproar about the fact that stars awarded to 26 Shanghai restaurants included nine that specialized in Cantonese, not Shanghai, cuisine. Then there was the mini-scandal of one of the restaurants having to close because it didn’t have all the proper licenses.

Shanghai people certainly took umbrage over what they see as a slight to hometown cuisine. Some of their favorite upmarket eateries were ignored in favor of restaurants catering to tourists. In addition to coveted stars, another 25 restaurants were honored as Bib Gourmand restaurants. Only 10 of them specialize in Shanghai cuisine.

Michael Ellis, Michelin Guide international director, tried to turn down the heat under the new rankings, noting that Shanghai-style restaurants came in a high second after Cantonese restaurants.

The Paris-based Michelin Guide is taking Asia by a storm this year, inaugurating new guides in Shanghai, Singapore and Seoul.

Claire Dorland-Clauzel, executive vice president of Michelin brands and vice-president of Michelin International, said the foray into Asia continues the company’s long history with regional cuisine.

He noted there are Michelin-starred Chinese and Asian restaurants in Europe, North America and South America.

That may explain the seeming preference for Cantonese restaurants in Shanghai. Most overseas Chinese restaurants are Cantonese style.

Ellis said at least one of the Michelin inspectors for the Shanghai guide was a Shanghai local, and Dorland-Clauzel said more than half of the inspectors were Chinese.

Another concern was the lack of Japanese restaurants in the new Michelin Guide. Japanese cuisine is probably the second most popular in Shanghai, after Chinese. Only one Japanese-style barbeque restaurant, Kanpai Classic, received a Michelin star.

Ellis explained that the Michelin restaurant inspectors did visit some Japanese restaurants and wrote objective comments. He said more Japanese restaurants would probably make the list in the future.

Whether locals are happy or not, the advent of the Michelin Guide in the city is likely to set new standards for restaurants and raise the profile of the debate over what constitutes fine dining.

The Michelin Guide’s influence is well-known. Starred restaurants are guaranteed high foot traffic and wide media exposure. There is also a downside.

In Hong Kong, smaller restaurants face tough challenges as Michelin recognition bumps up rents. Kai Kai Dessert, a Hong Kong shop that specializes in old-fashioned Cantonese tang shui and desserts, was forced to find new location after the restaurant was featured in the street food section of the Michelin Guide in 2015 and the landlord subsequently hiked the monthly rent 120 percent.

In Shanghai, there have also been unforeseen repercussions. Just a day after receiving a Michelin star, Tai’an Table was forced to shut down for operating without the proper licenses and operating within a residential building. Residents in the surrounding area have long filed complaints against the restaurant, citing noise and safety concerns. When the Michelin star put Tai’an Table on the citywide radar, the Changning District Market Supervision and Management Bureau stepped in to seal off its operations.

This western restaurant, run by German Chef Stefan Stiller, catered to a limited number of diners with two set menus, priced 988 yuan (US$148) for 10 courses and 1,288 yuan for 14 courses. It was quite popular among city gourmets.

Stiller is relocating Taian Table to a “proper” location and applying for required licenses.

Other newly starred restaurants in Shanghai, however, are enjoying the all the attention bestowed by Michelin recognition.

The only restaurant to receive three Michelin stars is T’ang Court, a Cantonese restaurant at The Langham in Xintiandi and sister restaurant of the T’ang Court at The Langham, Hong Kong.

“After passing along the gorgeous curved corridor of private rooms, you may feel that the main dining room, with just six formally dressed tables, is a little understated. However, the charm and professionalism of the staff will soon put you at ease. The experienced chef delivers a mix of classic and modern Cantonese dishes. Specialties include braised sea cucumber with dried longan and sautéed Wagyu with organic mushrooms.” — Michelin’s comment on T’ang Court.

The T’ang Court in Shanghai had a clear goal when new Chinese Executive Chef Justin Tan arrived this spring. Aiming for three Michelin stars, he created a new menu that featured both T’ang Court’s award-winning dishes and other modern Chinese dishes, including five signature dishes from T’ang Court in Hong Kong.

I visited T’ang Court in Shanghai this spring, when the new menu was launched. The general experience was solid and Michelin-worthy — professional staff, efficient service, high quality ingredients and impeccable presentation.

I especially enjoyed the steamed coral leopard grouper with green peppercorns, which balanced the umami taste of the fresh fish with just a hint of green peppercorn highlighting the seasonings. The homemade tofu in grouper broth was also delicious. The kitchen makes its own tofu every morning in limited quantities.

The award-winning stir-fried fresh red lobster with spring onions, red onions and shallots was also top class in terms of ingredients, cooking style and seasoning.

All waiters there spoke fluent Mandarin and English, and some even spoke Cantonese, which could be a big bonus for a Cantonese restaurant outside Guangdong and Hong Kong.

But T’ang Court is not an affordable restaurant for most. One has to spend big bucks to experience the Michelin glow, with chef’s recommended dishes priced at between 120 yuan to 1,500 yuan, plus a 15 percent service charge.

According to T’ang Court, reservations for both private dining rooms and a la carte tables are pretty fully booked until the end of October. If you want to experience three Michelin stars in Shanghai, you need to think ahead.

The two Lei Garden restaurants in IFC and iapm malls both received one Michelin star. This is where I harbored real doubts about the Michelin inspector’s comments.

“Reservations are a must as this Lei Garden in IFC is continuously packed with people craving good quality Cantonese cuisine. At lunchtime, customers come in droves for the expertly crafted dim sum and the soups. The dinner menu offers premium dishes like seafood and dried fish maw. Those wishing to avoid making too much of a dent in their wallets should opt for the seasonal stir-fries and casseroles.” — Michelin’s comment on Lei Garden.

I visited Lei Garden in IFC about two years ago for a casual lunch. My experience wasn’t anything like Michelin describes. The food was mediocre. I tried the signature crispy roasted pork, and it was nothing special. The dim sum was passable, but the service was disappointing, with unhelpful waiters.

The Four Seasons Cantonese restaurant in the Bib Gourmand category was another big question mark for me. I visited the restaurant last year and it wasn’t a memorable dining experience. I ordered four dishes. It took more than 30 minutes for them to arrive, and the first three placed in front of me weren’t what I had ordered. When the fourth dish did arrive correctly, I heard complaints from the table next to me about getting the wrong orders.

Of course, taste is a personal thing. The Michelin Guide merely gets Shanghai people talking about taste and dining experiences. That’s a good thing. No doubt future editions of the new Shanghai guide will be equally thought-provoking.




 

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