Aussie wines perfect partner for rice noodles
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NOODLES are a quintessential comfort food that combine the commendable attributes of being cheap, nutritious, filling and easy to transport, store and cook. Their origins remain ambiguous, though a 2005 archaeological dig in China's Qinghai Province uncovered what are believed to be the earliest known noodles. Under 3 meters of dirt, a sealed bowl was found to contain thin yellow noodles made of foxtail and broom corn millet. The remnant noodles were carbon dated to over 4,000 years ago. Though some still dispute this find, in all likelihood one of the world’s most popular foods was first made in China.
This week’s iDeal section focuses on Chinese rice noodles so I thought it apropos to introduce a region making wines that partner beautifully with three of my favorite rice noodle dishes.
Perhaps the most famous and beloved rice noodle dish comes from Guilin. Legend has it that the noodles were invented in the Qin Dynasty over two millenniums ago to please the occupying northern soldiers who had no taste for southern rice. True or not, this dish has a long and distinguished history and is loved by noodle enthusiasts the world over. The last time I visited Guilin I was astounded by the various preparations of this dish, some with beef, others with pork and even a few with horse meat. All versions were amply spiced with a rich sauce like stock and elastic textured noodles.
Having lived in Taiwan for many years, I’m a huge fan of Taiwan style stir-fried rice noodles. This common street food dish offers an abundance of delicious flavors. The fine rice vermicelli noodles are combined with slivers of pork, dried shrimp, mushrooms and vegetables. One of the most famous examples comes from the city of Hsinchu where seasonal pumpkin is also thrown in. The combination of savory pork and mushrooms with sweet pumpkin and salty shrimp is simply divine.
If Thailand has a national dish, it must be pad Thai. Deceptively simple comprising rice noodles, preserved radish, egg, bean sprouts, peanuts, dried chilies and sometimes a few other ingredients, this dish offers a delicate balance between salty, sour, sweet and spicy flavors. Though technically a Thai dish, this rice noodle delight owns much to Chinese culinary traditions.
The three aforementioned rice noodle dishes are good by themselves but far more delicious when accompanied by a bright and balanced wine. Adelaide Hills in Southern Australia has the perfect climate to make fresh white wines with good acidity. The high elevation of the vineyards results in cool evening temperatures, while the sloping vineyards provide ideal exposure to the sun. The result is complex white, red and sparkling wines with ample fruit but also a high degree of acidity.
Unlike wines from neighboring regions like Barossa the wines of Adelaide Hills are usually medium bodied with moderate alcohol content.
These factors along with their excellent balance between the fruit and acidity make them exceeding food friendly, augmenting delicate rice noodle dishes rather than overpowering them.
Their freshness offsets the spiciness of Guilin rice noodles, highlights the complex flavors of Taiwanese rice noodles and embellishes the more subtle flavors and textures of pad Thai rice noodles.
Adelaide Hills is the oldest wine region in Southern Australia with vines being cultivated as early as 1839.
In the late 19th century and most of the 20th century the popularity of Adelaide Hills wines was supplanted by regions like the Barossa Valley that made bigger and more robust wines. Recently dry and fresh wines have returned to vogue and the wines of Adelaide Hills gained in popularity in no small part because they don’t overpower many light, healthy foods.
The three most important varieties of this region are the white wine grapes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.
The Sauvignon Blancs tend to be crisp and vibrant, the Chards lean and textured and the Rieslings bone dry with mineral notes. Excellent dry and spicy Pinot Blanc and Gruner Veltliner whites are also being made. Should your palate favor red wines, Adelaide Hills makes some of Australia’s most delicate and balanced reds. Particularly good are the fresh, spicy and savory Pinot Noirs and stylish and peppery Shirazs.
Food lovers in general, and rice noodle enthusiasts in particular, should seek out the food friendly wines of Adelaide Hills. Some recommended producers with wines available in Shanghai are Grosset, Tanunda Hill, Hewitson, Henschke and Dandelion Vineyards.
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