GREAT cities like Rome have a way of both striking visitors with their epic grandeur, while at the same time keeping their best treasures concealed at the end of ancient alleyways and behind grand palazzos.

To truly explore Rome, one needs plenty of time to slow down, take detours, enjoy its astonishing ancient sights, live like its life-embracing locals, and imbibe “la grande belleza” (the great beauty).

I've always felt emotionally connected to this city for its unparalleled grandness and scale, and the human drama contained in every aspect of its history. If Paris is an elegant woman, Rome would be a masculine, powerful man.

My recent travels brought me back to Rome and my connections with the city only grew deeper. Rome is one and only: the Eternal City, as it’s often called, is like a stage play filled with endless drama and entertainment.

I love to pace myself when I travel, especially in the sprawling city like Rome. I never want to overindulge because I always assume I’ll return.

Having visited the usual spots like Vatican City, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and the Colosseum, this time I was after more unexpected experiences. And lucky enough, my local friends constantly surprised me.

One morning after a cappuccino at Piazza del Popolo, where the ancient Romans used to race their chariots, my friend Lorenza Scalisi, an experienced journalist and travel designer for the travel atelier Italian Ways, showed up. “I have booked something for you. Follow me,” she said.

As I love to be surprised, I didn’t ask any questions. “Surprise me,” I replied.

After about a 20 minute walk, we stopped at one palazzo near Piazza Venezia, with a facade sober and less impressive than other structures in the center of Rome. After I entered its galleria on the second floor, I saw such magnificence that even surpassed my first impression of the Vatican Museum. It was jaw-dropping.

From the interior, it was easy to see that this was once of the most lavish and regal of Roman palaces. The rich furniture, the vast collection of delicate, valuable paintings in the superb gallery, the immense columns of antique marbles — my eyes kept traveling as I searched for words to describe my emotions.

The galleria itself is a setting of aristocratic grandeur, a jewel of Roman Baroque that is only open to the public every Saturday from 9am to 1:15pm as the family who owns this palatial home still resides here (make sure you’re in Rome over the weekend).

The Colonna family is one of the oldest families of the Roman aristocracy, with a history that dates back to the 12th century. The family started construction of the palazzo in 14th century and work continued throughout the 1600s. It eventually took the form of a large Baroque palace. Also during this time the Versailles-like Galleria was built featuring 76 meters of length facing onto via IV Novembre.

The private palazzo contains one of the finest private art collections in Rome. It includes gorgeous works by the likes of Pinturicchio, Cosme Tura, Carracci and Guido Reni. And one might also recognize the Baroque galleria from the final scene in “Roman Holiday,” where Audrey Hepburn meets the press.

After the tour at Palazzo Colonna, I started to wander the narrow streets, and gathered with locals in squares marked by bubbling fountains. One of Rome's chief pleasures is its compact layout in the center of the city that can be navigated in a single day with plenty of time for leisurely rests. This is easy to do, especially if you want to fuel up on an espresso.

A good place to start is the Pantheon neighborhood. Though highly touristy, this a must-see during any visit to Rome.

Sitting at a cafe in the piazza facing the city's best-known ancient monument makes for one of the best people-watching experiences in the heart of Rome. It’s even more marvelous against the backdrop of such a mathematically precise and imposing structure. The interior of the Pantheon is even more breathtaking. The 1,800-year-old floor has 80 percent of its original stones. The dome was the largest made until the Renaissance.

From the Pantheon, one can walk westwards to Piazza Navona and Campo de'Fiori, or follow the crowds to Trevi Fountain in the east.

As I wanted to check out a different side of Rome, I chose the somewhat less touristy neighborhood of Monti to spend a leisurely afternoon. A stone’s throw from the Colosseum, Monti is where many of Rome’s common people lived in ancient times.

Today, the neighborhood between Via Nazionale and Via Cavour is charming and picturesque with a boho, hippy vibe. It’s filled with trendy fashion and home decor boutiques as well as restaurants and cafes tucked into quiet corners occupied by mostly locals.

Monti has an urban village feel, and is relatively isolated from Rome’s major tourist trail. While much of Rome is filled with its past glory, this neighborhood is crowded with fun and creative places focused on modern living.

Monti is also the right area to observe the fashion trends and what’s new in Roman-cool. The historic center of Rome is famous for luxury shopping but it’s Monti that boasts the city's best indie boutiques offering made-in-Italy one-of-a-kind pieces. Mercato Monti on the weekends is an interesting market where you can pick up offbeat finds and independent designer pieces.

The neighborhood is also filled with chic eateries and cafes jammed with young people enjoying drinks al fresco. Most of the wine bars and cafes here give off an intimate, fun-loving vibe without any pretense. For a real glimpse into Roman life, check out the people hanging at the fountain on Piazza della Madonna dei Monti.

After a leisurely stroll in Monti and some boutique shopping, my Roman friend Andrea Canapa rang me: “It’s time for aperitivo!”

Aperitivo time is always the best time of the day wherever you are in Italy. Italians love their aperitivo: pre-dinner drinks meant to whet the appetite and bring together friends. It’s at that time that you can act like a local and strike up a conversation over a spritz.There are a wide range of options to go for aperitivo in Rome, from hotel terraces facing some of the best scenes to hidden spots known mostly to locals. I was brought to a garden courtyard of Hotel Locarno near Piazza del Popolo, where mostly chic locals socialize away from tourist crowds. This is a much-loved spot among cultural figures and artists, so here you can really feel like you've entered Rome's “inner circle.”

Another gorgeous lounge for aperitivo sipping is at Palazzo Dama, especially if the luxurious interior vibe is your thing. Its lofty walls filled with precious art offer a sophisticated backdrop for indulging in a crafted cocktail. It's also the right spot to breathe an air of decadence.

I cannot think of a more pleasant evening than a Roman one. Locals go out to restaurants to enjoy themselves, to socialize with friends and to look at others. Again it really can seem like a drama sometimes, with an atmosphere of joyfulness and a background of triumphal arches and grandiose monuments.

Roman cooking, compared to its extravagant city, is rather simple: simply prepared and without frills. However, it's the simplicity that is attractive to all. Everything tastes good from spaghetti cacio e pepe to the artichokes Romans are deservedly proud of.

Recommended restaurants

Casa Bleve (via del teatro valle 48)

An enchanting dining experience in the center of historic Rome near the Pantheon, Casa Bleve is a magnet for the most demanding palates. The vibe of the dining hall set inside a palazzo is no doubt one of the most beautiful dining spaces in the city. The restaurant also boasts an amazing collection of wine.

Trattoria Al Moro (13, Vicolo Delle Bollette)

Very close to the Trevi Fountain, tucked away in a back alley, is this old school favorite where locals dine. The dishes here are sure to excite your tastebuds. The restaurant offers typical Roman dishes made with simple ingredients which come daily from the best markets in the area. It’s been around since the 1920s.