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June 23, 2016

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After facelift, dishes taste as delicious as before

FROM the tree-lined former French concession to the ever-expanding French community, France still has a strong impact on Shanghai. When it comes to fine dining, it’s been more than a decade since French celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened a restaurant here, setting the bar high for contemporary French dining for local foodies.

As one of the most classical of the city’s French restaurants, the Jean Georges Shanghai recently emerged from a face-lift, looking younger and brighter than before. The restaurant is still a formal place, but award-winning design firm Neri&Hu added soft cream tones on the walls, and picked sleek furniture and contemporary brass elements for the interior.

The previously concealed, classical arched columns at the reception foyer are now exposed showing their elegant patina; gradient glass and mirrors reflect the views of the Bund; brass objects are placed across the space to give a metallic touch. An ultimate dining space has been meticulously created to present a new era of Jean Georges.

While the setting has been beautifully revamped, the food still truthfully represents the culinary philosophy of Jean-Georges, a master at maintaining the essence of ingredients while mixing them inventively to produce the best flavor possible. The menu elevates the classic French creations to a modern version with more dishes inspired by seasonal produce.

To understand the chef’s philosophy, a four-course dinner or one of two seven-course tasting menus are worth a try. The spring menu is an exceptional creation of flavors from across Europe and Asia.

I started my dinner with a divine starter: toasted egg yolk, caviar and herbs — a Jean Georges classic. As usual, it was exquisite. The texture and flavor of the yolk were perfectly mixed with the salty bursts of caviar. It was a decadent bite for the beginning of a wonderful evening.

A lighter and more delicate course followed: Madai Sashimi, olive oil, sea salt, and preserved chili with fragrant Madai broth. This dish was ideal for spring season as it is fresh and clean on the palette with the right amount of salt, pepper and chili as garnish. Again, it proved Jean Georges’ concept of drawing the basic essence and nuanced flavors of quality ingredients to the fore. The Madai broth was a warm, flavorsome addition to the sashimi.

Another Jean Georges classic is boiled squab and onion compote with corn pancake and foie gras. The squab was delicious and meaty while the texture of the foie gras with corn pancake was a nice contrast.

It was a relief to discover that the desserts aren’t overwhelming rich or sweet. The dessert menu includes some tropical and fruity choices for the hot season ahead. However, the chocolate dessert tasting plate is still my all-time favorite. Once again, I fell in love with every single bite as I sipped an espresso at the end of the night.




 

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