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Gold items offer dazzling glimpse of Ming nobility
AN exhibition of unearthed jewlery at Zhejiang Museum’s Gushan Pavilion has drawn huge crowds since opening to the public last week, with many coming specifically to view a collection of exquisitely crafted gold ornaments from the country’s imperial past.
The 130 artifacts now on view were unearthed from the tombs of Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) Prince Zhu Yiju (1534-1570) and his wife, who were buried in Qichun County of Hubei Province. Ten of the items are being displayed to the public for the first time.
During the Ming Dynasty, a system of hereditary nobility was established. The princes were given large estates and wealth, but were not allowed to become merchants or take part in administration of the court.
Zhu Yiju was known as Prince of Jing, today’s Hubei Province where was his estate. His descendents inherited his title and wealth for 10 generations before the system was eventually abolished.
Zhu, as well as many of his progeny, was buried in the Daquan Mountains. Over the centuries, their graves were damaged by grave robbers, farmers, irrigation projects and land reclamation efforts. While Zhu’s tomb appears to have been plundered by thieves prior to excavation by archeologists, many of the dazzling gold accessories on display came from his wife’s grave.
These include gold hairpins, necklaces, bracelets and other accessories with sophisticated floral patterns that were popular with the nobility of Zhu’s day.
As was common in ancient times, when a wealthy family married off their daughter they would often give the bridegroom a dowry that included a few gold articles.
Gold accessories were divided according to their ritual and social function. Those classified as fengguan xiapei (“phoenix crown and robes” in Chinese), were common ritual accessories worn during celebrations and wedding ceremonies.
Status symbols
Depending on the rank of the wearer, fengguan xiapei were adorned with gold dragons and phoenixes, beaded pheasants, pearls and gemstones. Such pieces were further classified by the number of dragons and phoenixes, and the presence or absence of other adornments.
At the current exhibition, viewers can see four such phoenix pins, which still retain their luster after being buried underground for centuries.
In addition to rituals, ceremonies and celebrations, empresses and noblewomen also wore gold accessories in daily life.
The exhibited hairpins feature layers of gold petals which are shaped into flowers. Colorful gems are embedded in between. Ancient craftsmen even used gold strings to create filament pistils.
Other hairpins were sculptured with images of Buddha and Buddhist scriptures which symbolized auspiciousness and fortune. Again, these also reflected the wearer’s social status.
In addition to hairpins, hair bands adorned with gold clouds and floral patterns are also on display. These were common accessories worn by noblewomen during their daily lives. One exhibited hair band is ornamented with nine small figurines. These are believed to be immortals in the Daoist tradition, and were meant to bring the wearer longevity.
Earrings and ear pendants were also popular accessories for ancient noblewomen. For ear pendants, the calabash shape was quite common. This motif originated during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Starting in the Ming, jade and crystals were gradually added to increasingly elaborate pendants.
Bracelet styles also proliferated during the Ming. They were usually embedded with eight gems, hence their name “eight-treasure bracelet.” During royal wedding ceremonies, the bride always wore four varieties of bracelets to showcase her nobility and fortune.
At the time, even buttons were used to reflect an individual’s social station. The exhibited gold buttons are inlaid with diverse gemstones and carved with auspicious patterns which were only available to elite families.
Wearing waist belts was also a trend among the Ming nobility. Jade belts were considered the best. One such belt, known as yujinbu, now on view made a tinkling noise when the wearer was walking. In ancient times, people were supposed to walk slowly to showcase their elegance. Such accessories served as a reminder to check the pace of one’s steps.
Venue: Gushan Pavilion, Zhejiang Museum
Address: 25 Gushan Rd
Date: Through October 7, closed on Mondays
Admission: Free
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